Cultural Alchemy: Fengcha Tradition in Tea Retailing in Contemporary China

Introduction

Over the last two decades, the Chinese tea industry has undergone a remarkable transformation, significantly influenced by cultural and economic shifts. Notably, the emergence of female tea masters, known as “chayishi (茶艺师, tea master or tea artist),” epitomizes this change. Since the early 2000s, the training system initiated integrates traditional Chinese values and aesthetics into the educational journey of workers in tea retailing, the majority of whom are women. These female tea masters extend beyond the simple act of serving tea; they are pivotal in cultural exhibitions, creating an inviting ambiance while epitomizing traditional femininity and elegance. Their involvement enhances brand promotion and serves as a symbol of Chinese tea culture, shaping the industry's image and the tea consumption experience for the public. Concurrently, the age-old Buddhist practice of “Fengcha” (奉茶, offering tea) has evolved into a powerful marketing strategy, weaving together elements of the past, present, and cultural identity to cultivate customer relationships. The renewed folklore tradition in tea retailing enables tea brands to present themselves in an authentic manner. Indeed, even before the rise of the “guochao” phenomenon (the nationalist trend in domestic consumption), the retail tea business was already experiencing transformative shifts. The industrial practice trace back the as early as the 1980s in Taiwan, merchants began to collaborate with intellectuals, using service and cultural packaging as essential tools to do marketing. Gradually, the commercialization of “offering tea (奉茶)” became a common practice in the retail sector of the tea industry.

This research focuses on the commercialized practice of Fengcha in the contemporary tea retailing business. Adopted as an industry standard, this practice includes the systematic training of workers and showcases the historical process of cultural transmission. This study accentuates the gender segregation within the tea industry and culture, exploring the utilization of predominantly female labor at an economical cost. In recent years urban China, traditional literati aesthetics in tea art education have resonated with the burgeoning middle class, reinforcing image building on the production side, and culminating in a tea culture rich with ritualistic and performative elements. This refined interpretation not only gives insight into the historical and cultural significance of tea in China but also highlights the complex intersection of tradition, commerce, and gender. The transformation of a simple act of hospitality into a profound symbol of culture and identity showcases the adaptability of cultural heritage in the modern era.